I personally use adobe Photoshop as little as I can, I will much prefer to get a picture perfect in camera so I am not investing time for every graphic. Most of my own photos have been captured around half an hour.
A photo shot around mid day, might be affected by harsh and high sunlight. To overpower this I positioned my model in the shadows produced by the branches of a sizable palm tree. I set up a large California Sun-bounce Gold and Silver Zebra reflector out in the direct sunlight highlighting soft warm light on the front of the model.
I got a light measurement from the models face and shot with shutter speed of 1250s aperture of f2.8 at 400 ISO. White balance set to daylight.
This image had been shot on my D2H with a 24mm to 70mm f2,8 Nikon lens, focal size set with 42mm, 1.4 mtrs away from my own model to emphasize her limbs also and then we had a great connection regarding creating good energy and pointing.
Notice my personal lens/eye level is incorporated in the middle of the girl torso, this is very important when shooting wide angle and close to the subject to avoid distortion, ie if you take to up high your designs head will be big and her legs may be like they are short like a poultry and visa versa thus its vital that you get your eye/camera lens stage at the right just the height to prevent distortion,
I will most likely shoot from a lower angle, particularly if I am trying to emphasize the gap of a models legs for hosiery images.
To keep the sun as glowing blue as possible I photo with a polarizing filtration on my lens, considering the west of the midday sun. This is how you retain the sea and the sky blue as well as making my own models skin/tan look nice an silky by eliminating some of the specular reflections on her behalf skin.
If I had been taking pictures facing much more to the east the skies and the ocean would have been far more burned away..
When I started shooting digital I stood a lot of problems because I attempted to shoot digital the same manner I shot film. Now any time I am shooting, I will always beneath expose in the meter reading, this is done a couple of of reasons, to saturate color as well as to ensure I am not necessarily loosing my high lamps. Obviously my own images are going to be a little about the dark side yet I can easily appropriate for this using a little s curve in Photoshop to start the retouching process.
I always shoot raw files and a small jpg, why I will explain inside another Small Gem.
I process my raw file like shot in camera raw from Bridge and open these in Photoshop. (Raw files have a great deal more latitude re graphic information and will bring about far better quality photos).
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